The BILCO Company has served the building industry since 1926. During these years it has built a reputation among architects, engineers, specifiers, and the construction trades for dependability and for products that are unequaled in design and workmanship. BILCO, a wholly owned subsidiary of AmesburyTruth which is a division of Tyman PLC, has been a pioneer in the development of specialty. For most homeowners wishing to convert a crawl space into a storage area, moisture is going to be the main impediment. Your crawl space may not have a moisture problem, but there’s only one way to know: get down there and assess things. Look for evidence of mold—on the walls, joists, ductwork or insulation.

I have a crawl space that needs an 8' ladder to get to my air handler. There are concrete blocks holding up beams. Is there a way to accomplish this task?My first call would be to Otis. Have them install an elevator. It'll save you a lot of time in the long run.Sitting down with an architect would be my next step and determine what purposes need to be served by doing the addition, and turn him lose.

Play room, man cave, plumbing shop, safe room, bunker, gun locker, food storage, fire works factory, casino. I am thinking about digging out the crawlspace and pouring a concrete floor under half of my house. I was wondering if there was a way that can be done.

I don't know what to do with with the posts or the footing. I guess I could throw up a steel I beam across where the posts are so I can take them down but that still leaves me with the footing.Duhhhh.now I see! Quick answer is that you'll have to transfer loads to footings. So the beam can possibly carry the load of the piers/posts to the outside footing.You don't want to dig in the 45 degree plane from the bottom of any part of the footing where you are carrying load. I have a crawl space that needs an 8' ladder to get to my air handler. There are concrete blocks holding up beams. Is there a way to accomplish this task?I must be missing something.

If you now need an 8' step ladder to reach the air handler, why would you need to dig this crawl space any (or much) deeper?working height of 8 ft ladder is about 5.5 feet, plus your height you gain another 3 or 4 feet from the wasit up, so you're at roughly 9 feet to what I am guessing is the top of hte air handler. How deep does it need to be?

Maybe you level it out and go down another 6 or 8 inches, get some ridgid insulation in under the slab, run some tubing for hydronic heat, and pour your slab(skipped a few steps but you get my drift). Before this I would temporarly support the loads currently on the block columns, then tear them out and put in a proper footing if not already there.

If it is already there then if you don't know how big and deep it is you need to find out by doing a little exploratory digging. Then put in some new footings if need be and install some columns and a new steel carrier beam. Conversly this could be done after you pour the floor if you leave some 4x4 foot openings around the existing columns that would let you place new footings if you needed to then close the openings around the footings with concrete, but this would not be my choice.Don't take what I am about to say next wrong but wait, why guess?Aren't you one of those who says to call a pro when a plumbing question comes up?Why not call a knowledgable Builder or an Architect or PE and get their input on doing it right. I must be missing something. If you now need an 8' step ladder to reach the air handler, why would you need to dig this crawl space any (or much) deeper?working height of 8 ft ladder is about 5.5 feet, plus your height you gain another 3 or 4 feet from the wasit up, so you're at roughly 9 feet to what I am guessing is the top of hte air handler. How deep does it need to be?

Maybe you level it out and go down another 6 or 8 inches, get some ridgid insulation in under the slab, run some tubing for hydronic heat, and pour your slab(skipped a few steps but you get my drift). Before this I would temporarly support the loads currently on the block columns, then tear them out and put in a proper footing if not already there. If it is already there then if you don't know how big and deep it is you need to find out by doing a little exploratory digging.

Then put in some new footings if need be and install some columns and a new steel carrier beam. Conversly this could be done after you pour the floor if you leave some 4x4 foot openings around the existing columns that would let you place new footings if you needed to then close the openings around the footings with concrete, but this would not be my choice.Don't take what I am about to say next wrong but wait, why guess?Aren't you one of those who says to call a pro when a plumbing question comes up?Why not call a knowledgable Builder or an Architect or PE and get their input on doing it right.No offense taken. I want an honest opinion and it seems I have gotten that in this thread. I don't want/need someone pandering to me or others on the forum.I will not be doing the work. I do not have the time or the knowledge for this job.

I was just wanting to get some advice under my belt so I could go forward more aware and be engaging. I didn't want to waste anyone's time if I could help it. As far as calling a pro for any question that pops up, that is just ridiculous. That is not my go to response. It is a response to some things though.

Those call a pro responses, like this, is a job that can cause harm and loss of house and life. So this would fall into that category, call a pro. Thanks for pointing that out and for the advice.Almost forgot, a portion of the crawl is very tall, about a third of it. I was thinking about getting about half to be a usable basement with outside access.

Heck, I will have to fill up part of the crawl higher to level the floor out.

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